Evans Cherry
This past summer, we picked 45 pounds of cherries off our 2 Evans Cherry trees. It was the first year of decent production for us. It has been reported that these trees that were first grown in Alberta can produce from 10 to 30 gallons of fruit a year.
Evans cherries are considered tart, but we found them sweet enough to be eaten fresh. Our pies and jams were delicious (see Recipes), but these bright red cherries are also excellent for wine, sauces, and jelly.
The Evans Cherry, hardy to zone 2, is a small tree, maturing at 10 to 12 feet tall. Ours have been planted in a very windy area of our zone 3 property, in heavy clay soil, thus proving Evans is a tough tree. Ideally, these cherries will be planted out of the wind in good soil with excellent drainage. They need weekly watering to become established, but like most trees, don't like their roots sitting in a wet spot.
Since Evans is self-pollinating, like other sour cherries, it is the perfect choice for a small yard, as a single tree may be planted with the expectation of a future harvest. A 1 to 2 gallon size tree from the nursery may take 5 or more years to produce a good crop, so patience will be required.
The Evans Cherry is highly recommended, especially for someone that enjoys cherry pie, cherry jam, or cherry cheesecake!

University of Saskatchewan Cherries
Some newer cherries have been introduced from the University of Saskatchewan with great results reported for cold climates. These trees are also self-pollinating, but shorter, ranging from 4 to 8 feet tall. All of the six varieties mentioned below are hardy to zone 2.
Here is a brief description of each of these cherry trees, as reported by our suppliers.

After spending more than 60 years of selecting and testing the best plants, the University of Saskatchewan has given Canadians every reason to expect a new potential for cherry growers in colder climates.

Cherry Pitters
One final note about growing cherries: if you plan to use more than a few pounds of cherries, it is highly recommended that you employ the use of a simple household cherry pitter. These little devices are worth their price and cannot be fully appreciated until one has spent several hours pitting cherries by hand.

This begonia hanging basket is pictured in the background on the cover of our Spring 2008 catalogue. To make your own begonia hanging basket, you will need: 3 Tuberous Begonias (shown: Non-stop orange) 3 Impatiens (shown: Envoy Peach Butterfly) 3 Ivy plants 14" Wire Hanging Basket with liner Potting mix, peat based Fertilizer and Water TIP 1: A deep hanging basket is preferred to a shallow one. We like Braun's Moisture Mat Hanging Basket with Chain Hanger for good soil volume and moisture retention. TIP 2: Use young plants that were started in a greenhouse and are the right size for transplanting.

INSTRUCTIONS Fill basket roughly 2/3 full of potting mix. You may add a dry organic fertilizer for annual flowers such as Gaia Green Power Bloom according to package directions. Fill basket roughly 2/3 full of potting mix. You may add a dry organic fertilizer for annual flowers such as Gaia Green Power Bloom according to package directions. Remove plants from their containers and gently loosen the roots. Place each plant in the basket, arranging as in the diagram below. Add potting soil around plants. Pat soil and plants into place. Water and fertilize. We add liquid fish fertilizer to our watering can according to the package directions. Hang your basket in a shady location, out of the wind. CARE TIPS Hanging baskets usually require daily watering. Use your finger as a gauge to feel for moisture and determine how much water to add each day. It is best to let your begonias dry out between waterings, but not to let them remain dry for too long. During hot and dry weather, you may need to check and water your basket morning and evening each day. We add fish fertilizer to the watering can every second week. You may choose to fertilize more or less depending on your results. Bring your hanging basket inside if frost is suspected.

Pumpkins are fun to grow for gardeners of all ages. Each year, we typically grow 4 or 5 different types of pumpkins in our garden in a range of sizes and uses.
This past summer, one pumpkin in particular stood out: the small pie pumpkin. These pumpkins are produced on regular pumpkin vines in larger quantities. However, the fruit of most pie pumpkins will grow to smaller sizes, often under 5 pounds.
The variety that we grew this year was "Spooktacular", a hybrid that produced many 3 to 4 pound pumpkins for us. In general, the varieties we have found most suitable for our climate mature in 85 to 95 days and are likely to ripen on the vine before frost strikes in early September. Though pumpkins will continue to ripen after picked, we find a vine-ripened pumpkin to be superior in flavour and texture to a pumpkin that must be picked green before a hard frost, as often occurs with large jack-o-lantern varieties.

Planting Method
Short season pumpkin seeds may be sown directly into the garden just around the date of the average last spring frost. Alternatively, started plants may be purchased from a local greenhouse.
In a well drained area of the garden, make hills of dirt approximately 12 inches (30cm) across and 4 to 6 inches (10-15cm) high. Pat dirt down a little and plant 3 or 4 seeds roughly 1 inch (2.5cm) deep in the top of the hill. If you are using started plants, transplant 2 or 3 plants per hill, taking care not to disturb the roots. Water the hills to keep the ground moist but not wet, especially while plants or seeds are getting established. Pumpkins like rich soil, so adding composted manure and fertilizing with an organic fertilizer (like fish emulsion) will be beneficial. Cover plants at night with a sheet if frost is suspected.

hint: Planting pumpkins or other squash alongside corn will keep the vines confined. It has also been reported to repel raccoons from the corn.

Pumpkins, like most plants, do not like to be sitting in wet, soggy, soil, so it may help to plant in a raised bed or to dig a trench around the garden to improve drainage. These practices will be especially important if you live in an area that is prone to heavy rains.

Starting Seeds Indoors
If you want to start your own seeds in a greenhouse or sunny window, it is really quite simple. About 3 or 4 weeks before you plan to plant your pumpkin plants is the time to do it.
You will need some small containers such as a cottage cheese containers or purchased peat pots with a 2 _ to 3 inch diameter. (Some peat pots may be planted directly in the garden with the plant at transplant time to help reduce disturbing the roots.) Poke drainage holes in the bottom if they are not already there. Add some peat-based potting soil and tamp down. Make 2or 3 holes with your finger roughly 1 inch deep and drop a seed in each hole. Cover seeds with the dirt then water to moisten the soil. Place planted pots in a warm sunny spot and keep moist, but not wet. Transplant outdoors when the ground is warm a frost is unlikely.
The advantage to using started plants is most evident if pumpkins requiring a long growing season (more than 100 days) are desired.

Harvesting and Using Pumpkins
Harvest pumpkins for eating when they are orange, if weather permits. Otherwise, pick orange or green pumpkins before they are touched by a hard frost. Pumpkins with firm skin (not easily poked through with your fingernail) can be stored for several months in a cool, dry location indoors where they will not freeze.
Pumpkins are great for fall decorations as well as eating (click Recipes for cooking ideas). Keep in mind that a pumpkin used for a jack-o-lantern should not be used for eating later, as the candle leaves the flesh unsuitable for consumption.